All posts by Maritta Grau

The Dryer’s Revenge

I was just thinking: I am my own worst enemy sometimes. Certainly, I can see myself in a Three Stooges or Keystone Kops movie or some other kind of comic relief.

Recently, I was taking laundry out of the dryer. I pulled out a pair of pajama bottoms, then a sock. I tossed the sock on top of the dryer, but the sock fell on the floor between the washer and dryer—there’s such a narrow gap, I could barely get my arm and hand between the two machines.

Of course, the sock was about halfway back, so I bent down, reaching further with my left hand as I balanced myself with my right hand, which still held the pajama bottom.

Still couldn’t reach the sock. I bent over even further, reaching for the sock with the left part of my body, while my face was turned toward the dryer, my right hand holding the pajama bottom now trailing on the floor. I adjusted my squatting stance a bit. When I moved my right foot, I put it down on the pajama bottom. I slipped but managed to catch myself on the edge of the dryer door, whereupon the door sprang back up and somehow smacked my nose and the side of my face, causing me to lose my balance and fall backward.

Luckily, nothing was bruised or broken.

I did get the &%#@@!!! sock.

I was just thinking: Lessons learned while traveling

I was just thinking…of what I’ve learned about myself through traveling. People often encourage one to travel–“It’s a way of broadening your horizons!” “You learn so much about other people! Other cultures!” “You’re not the Ugly American anymore!”

All true, all trite, and trite because they are so true.

But perhaps as much as looking outward, I learned even as a teen-ager to look inward. Thanks to my husband’s love of travel, I’ve also learned to recognize some at times uncomfortable truths about myself, truths that at home, I would probably gloss over and ignore.

There must be a wanderlust gene somewhere in my husband’s lineage. And maybe a stick-in-the-mud-stay-home gene in mine. Over the past 50-odd years, we’ve travelled by ourselves, as well as with many different friends and relatives—children, beginning when our older son was eighteen months, and then four years later, adding our younger son to the mix; my mother, my father, and my aunt; my brother and his wife; my husband’s parents; my husband’s brother and wife, and their daughter and later, her family.

If I’d been paying attention, I might have realized my husband’s wanderlust as early as when we were planning our wedding. Amidst the wedding decisions about colors, flowers, bridesmaids’ gowns, tuxedos, etc., I left all the honeymoon plans to Hal, although he did discuss lots of ideas with me. Where could we go with only one week off from our teaching jobs (we were using Thanksgiving vacation; we were first-year teachers, fresh out of college with student loans to repay, and were not supposed to take “personal” days in those early years), and not much money saved from these first two months of teaching?

He chose Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands. We would fly out from Baltimore on a jet to Puerto Rico, take an island hopper to St. Croix for four nights, and then back to Puerto Rico the last two. I had never been on a jet before, let alone out of the country, and this sounded romantic and adventurous.

Perhaps my first, tiny travelling epiphany occurred on that honeymoon. I recognized that I was afraid to try new things. No, I’m not talking about sex, which was wonderful, but about…scuba diving. Hal wanted to try it, but I was afraid and wouldn’t go—a little murmur in my brain whispered that I would look like a fool, and what if the mask broke, what if I couldn’t breathe, what if a manta ray came along and stung me while I was looking at the sea bottom, or a shark attacked me? I heard my paranoia but I didn’t face down those sneaky thoughts undermining my confidence.

After we were back home and settling into the ins and outs of marriage, I mused over the scuba diving suggestion and what my reaction had been—Hal hadn’t gotten angry because I wouldn’t try scuba diving, and in fact never mentioned it again. But I recognized that because of my fear, I had missed out on an interesting experience and, even more, had inadvertently prevented him from having that experience, too—and I was the better swimmer of the two of us!

Left to myself, I’d probably stay home year-round and travel only in my mind through the books I read. So another of the uncomfortable truths about myself has been, over the years, to determine why I don’t get as excited about traveling as Hal does. Do I tend to want to stay home because I’m lazy? Ummm. Because I’m afraid of strange places or people? No. Afraid of some random terrorist event occurring wherever we might be? Not really. Or because I don’t want to make the effort of packing—deciding what to take, what to leave at home, etc.? I think it’s mostly laziness!

Our yearly travels follow the same pattern every time. Hal gets that travel itch and starts broaching the subject to me. “We’ve never been to … Why don’t we go to…” I sigh. We negotiate when we might go, how long. He has a hard time at first pinning me down to a firm date (I suspect that he starts his negotiations about four to six months ahead of when he wants to go to gently coax me into going).

Something else I have learned through traveling is that my migraines are most often triggered by heat and humidity. Also, I love to garden, and when Hal is usually lobbying in the winter or very early spring for a vacation, I’m thinking about spring garden chores, planting dates, late-summer vegetable harvesting times. But I agree, knowing I will thoroughly enjoy wherever we go, whenever we go, whatever we do. My reluctance has lessened with each trip.

The next step in our pattern is researching the place(s) we will go. Hal reads travel books and brochures and researches web sites. He starts talking about the places we might go—we always like to see gardens, historic places, cathedrals, and museums. I read novels, subconsciously or sometimes not so subconsciously, choosing those set in the state or country we’ll visit. Only gradually do I begin to read non-fiction accounts of the people and places. Of course, just tell me that a favorite author lived where we’re going and I’m in!

And before I know it, suitcases are packed, camera is charged, and we’re off! What will I learn about myself this time?

I’m listening.

Maritta Perry Grau

Popular Houseplants for 2021

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post January 7, 2021, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

As we continue to sequester ourselves at home, many of us are adding more houseplants to our homes or apartments and planning for expansion of outdoor flower and vegetable gardens later this spring. Houseplants have many advantages; not only do they add beauty and color to a room, but they can help make the room healthier. Studies have shown that some plants may help to remove air pollutants, and if nothing else, can help you feel less stressed and more creative. A few of these helpful plants include certain species of palms (Rhapsis excelsa and Chrysalidocarpus lutescens), rubber plant (Ficus spp.), English ivy (Hedera helix), Boston fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), philodendron vines, and Snake plant (Sanseveiria).

The most popular houseplants for 2021 are expected to be those with patterned or textured foliage, those that are edible (i.e., herbs, edible flowers/foliage, and “mini” vegetables), and those that do well in low light. And of course, many of us would add easy maintenance to that list. With those criteria in mind, we scoured the University of Maryland Extension Service and several other web sites for a few of the most often recommended plants.

Patterned/textured foliage

This past year, the fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) has been quite popular, but plant prognosticator and long-time columnist Joyce Mast predicts that Ficus altissima (the omnipresent rubber tree) will take over in 2021 because it is easier to care for and has “velvety variegated leaves” (https://www.treehugger.com/top-houseplant-trends). F. altissima grows to be quite large, can survive low light, and is well known for its ability to remove toxins from the air, and for its low maintenance. In fact, it has long been a very popular office plant, probably because of that last reason.

Other plants Mast recommends for their foliage include Anthurium hookeri, A. crystallinum, and several species of Alocasia (A. black velvet, polly, regal shield, and frydek). Alocasias like moist but not overly saturated soil and bright to medium indirect light. Although they all have long, deeply heart-shaped leaves with prominent white veins, individual species vary. For example, A. polly’s leaves are sharply scalloped, almost like holly leaves; A. regal shield, also known as Elephant Ears, has rather broad leaves and may grow quite large or tall indoors.

Edible plants

You may have potted up some of your herbs last fall for continued use in the kitchen this winter. Basil, rosemary, sage, chervil, and thyme grow well inside to use for cooking—or just grow them indoors for their unique scents. Mint is another that does well inside; it can be quite a thug and very invasive in the garden outside. Next fall, you’ll want to check the University of Maryland Extension Service (https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_docs/programs/hgic/HGIC_Pubs/houseplants_seasonal/HG%20105OverwinteringTropicalPlants_2018.pdf) to see other herbs or other edible plants you can bring inside, and what kind of light, moisture levels, etc., they’ll need.

Low-light plants

If you brought in tropical plants from outdoors last fall, you’ve probably already treated them for pests and dealt with leaves yellowing and dropping before they became accustomed to the changes in light and atmosphere. Once inside last October, my Brugemania initially lost all of its leaves, although the coleus at its base has maintained color and leaves. I sequestered Brugemania in a spare room and watered it regularly. Despite the low light of the room, leaves are once more beginning to grow from the Brugemania stalk.

The University of Maryland Extension Service web site says that “Supplemental lighting with cool white florescent lights can improve survival [of tropical plants]. Don’t expect the plants to grow much, if at all, during the winter months because the light conditions are simply too low. When plants receive reduced light, their need for water also declines. It is very important not to overwater them, especially during the initial adjustment period. Water only when the soil is dry. Remember, the larger the pot, the longer it takes for the soil to dry.”

Plants that do well indoors in medium to low light include various species of Snake plant (Sansevieria), philodendron vine, pothos vine (Scindapsus; related to philodendron), Peace lily (Spathiphyllum), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), and Dracaena. Beware: While most plants grow very little in low-light conditions, others can grow several feet.

For further information about houseplants, you may want to review the following web sites:

  • https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/herbs
  • https://www.treehugger.com/top-houseplant-trends-4858425
  • https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/houseplants/hpgen/acclimate-plants-indoors-winter.htm
  • https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/bloomscape-top-plant-trends-2021-36852168

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The Perfect Gift? Try a Houseplant!

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on December 2, 2020, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

Now that it’s too cold to sit outside, social distancing with friends and extended family members (so hard when the Old Coach and I have one son and family across the street and one just two doors down!), how can we let them know we’re thinking of them?

How about an easy-care house plant or dish of succulents, assuming the family pets will leave said plants alone? The University of Maryland Extension Service (https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/selecting-indoor-plants) has many recommendations. In case a potted plant or dish garden is on your mind, here are just a few that UMD recommends, from easy-care to finicky.

  1. Don’t have a green thumb? No problem. The UMD Extension Service calls the well-named Snake plant(Sansevieria) “the toughest plant on the planet.” Well-named, indeed: I have had a small Sansevieria growing in a dish garden for about 10 years. For some reason, one of its blades has grown with a bend that reminds me of a cobra stretching up out of its basket. And tough, indeed: I once put a pot of Sansevieria on the sheltered front porch of our former home in Annapolis and left it there, totally neglected, all winter. It did not die.
  1. Dracaena, with colorful, striped or patterned foliage, usually darker green and chartreuse stripes or a purplish stripe, is a large, easy-care plant. Often, Dracaenas like a somewhat dry soil.
  1. Another easy-care plant is the ZZ, or Zamioculcas. According to Wikipedia, “Zamioculcas is…in the family Araceae, containing the single species Zamioculcas zamiifolia. It is a tropical perennial plant native to eastern Africa, from southern Kenya to northeastern South Africa.” 
  • If you’re looking for color, Dracaena, mentioned above, and Bromeliads are good choices. Water bromeliads by pouring water into the “cup” formed by their leaves; they will tolerate low light for a long time, although they much prefer bright lights. So, if you want to brighten up a windowless room, such as a bathroom, you might rotate a Bromeliad with other low light-tolerant plants, giving them longer turns in bright-light rooms, and shorter times in darker rooms.
  1. Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) has broad foliage, which grows from a central stem, is usually silver or gray-green, sometimes mottled with a mauve splotchiness or a mauve stripe, bringing some subtle color to the room it’s in. The UMD extension service warns that “old plants develop tall stems [which] should be cut back to promote more compact growth.”
  1. Sometimes foliage plants, bought primarily for their shades of green, can surprise you. A dish garden I received in 2009 included a small Hoya vine with thick, leathery, pointed and speckled, dark green leaves. Although it’s always been in the same brightly lit window, only this year did it bloom—and did so several times—magnificent tight clusters of waxy, delicate, star-shaped pale pink flowers, each star with a second, smaller star on top, and a dark pink center that feathered into the pale pink. And even the tiny brown seed pods that were left when the Hoya finished blooming were pretty—I will spray some of them gold and use them with pinecones and other dried materials to decorate Christmas presents.
  1. Succulents or cacti are easy to grow, have many species in a huge variety of shapes, colors, and sizes, and host very few pest or disease problems. They generally do well in south-facing windows, especially if they have good drainage and the soil dries between waterings.

[And one more observation]: Colin Skelly, horticulturist for the fabulous Eden Project in Cornwall, UK (https://www.edenproject.com/eden-story), notes that “…light and water…can have dramatic effects on a succulent’s colour. In winter, they are quite green, but as light levels increase, coloured forms take on their darker tones. When stressed by lack of water, even green succulents take on red, pink and yellow tints. Often this is when they look most dazzling…one of the delights of growing succulents…”

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Giving Thanks

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on November, 2020, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

November is a dividing month in some ways and a month for thanksgiving in other ways. And I’m not speaking politically. It’s a bridge between summer and winter; it’s a last chance to divide spring bulbs and perennials; it’s a transition between final, tuck-the-kids-into-bed outdoor tasks and those bring-the-kids-inside indoor tasks for houseplants. And it’s a time for giving thanks—thanks for the glories of gardening we’ve had, thanks for the diminution of outdoor tasks as winter approaches (what can I say? I’m lazy and I don’t like the cold, unless I’m inside drinking hot tea and watching the snow come down), and thanks for the plants I’m able to bring inside to keep summer a little longer.

Tucking the kids into bed:

Trees can be planted up until the ground freezes. You’ll want to protect young plants vulnerable to winter injury, like azalea, rhododendron, holly, cherry laurel, boxwood, mountain laurel, or those at their northern limit for winter hardiness. Hammer wooden stakes (about as tall as the shrubs) into the ground all around the shrub or shrub row, about 12–18 inches away from the plant. Make a protective barrier by stapling burlap or plastic sheeting to the stakes. Individual plants can be wrapped with burlap and a spiral of twine to hold the burlap in place.

You may want to apply a low-phosphorous fertilizer (not the same as lawn fertilizer) to newly planted and young evergreen shrubs and trees in November. However, established trees rarely need feeding, according to a blog put out by Homestead Gardens (https://blog.homesteadgardens.com/gardening-in-november).

Speaking of fertilizer, did you know that by law, homeowners cannot apply lawn fertilizers to Maryland lawns between November 15 and March 1 (https://mda.maryland.gov/Pages/fertilizer.aspx)? The University of Maryland Extension Service explains: “Maryland’s lawn fertilizer law helps protect the Chesapeake Bay from excess nutrients entering its waters from a variety of urban sources, including…hundreds of thousands of lawns….When it rains, lawn fertilizer can wash into nearby storm drains and streams that empty into the Chesapeake Bay, [contributing] to the growth of algae blooms that block sunlight from reaching Bay grasses, [robbing] the water of oxygen, and [threatening] underwater life. Lawn fertilizer now accounts for approximately 44 percent of the fertilizer sold in Maryland.”

When you mulch, keep mulch flat (no volcanoes, please!) and at least a couple inches away from trunks of trees/shrubs. For perennials, surround the crown with a two- to three-inch layer of mulch to protect the plant from heaving during the alternate freeze/thaw winter cycles, as the University of Maryland Extension Service advises.

How do you tuck your vegetables into bed? Cover garden beds with some kind of organic matter such as mulched leaves, or a grow a cover crop to till in next spring. Protect winter vegetables such as spinach, lettuce, arugula, kale, and other cool-season crops with a cold frame, plastic sheeting or floating row cover (see the October Master Gardeners’ column). Other sturdier root vegetables, such as carrots, can simply be covered with straw or leaf mulch.

Bringing the kids inside: Pay attention to houseplants, both temporary and permanent. Winter is usually a time of slow houseplant growth, but it’s important to research the needs of your particular plants. Light, water, and food can negatively affect the plants if they get too much or not enough. Leaves may yellow and droop or drop off; plants may be more susceptible to insect damage.

Light: With winter, the light may be weaker and come in at a slightly changed angle. You’ll want to put most herbs where they can get strong, direct sunlight; you might need to augment sunlight with fluorescent light.

Water: House temperatures are also changing as you move from AC to heat, affecting soil and moisture. You’ll want to determine if in winter, your plants need a weekly misting (or even a short session in the shower) or prefer to be on the dry side. My mother used to water her house cacti only when weather reports showed that western states were getting rain.

Fertilizer: Because winter is usually a slow-growth period, you may not need to fertilize indoor plants. If you do, begin with half the usual rate of fertilizer.

For more information about gardening, watch for the Master Gardeners’ column in the Frederick News-Post on the first Thursday of each month; sign up for the What Can We Do for You [now called in 2024 GardenSmart]e-newsletter; explore the University of Maryland’s extension service web site, http://extension.umd.edu/frederick-county/home-gardening; or call us at 301-600-1596.

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Welcome, Fall!

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on October 3, 2020, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

September has ended with perfect gardening weather as we welcome fall; gather pumpkins, gourds, and colorful leaves to decorate inside and outside; and continue our gardening “to-do” lists.

Pruning and planting: If you’re doing some outdoor pruning, remember not to trim those spring-flowering shrubs and trees until after they bloom next year. You can, however, plant trees, shrubs, and transplant irises and bulbs. Always carry the plant by its ball or in the container, never by the trunk. Cut away any twine and burlap from the root ball before planting. And make sure no roots are wrapped around the trunk (girdling), as that eventually chokes the life out of the plant. Now’s the time to finish storing flower seeds, tender bulbs, roots, tubers, or corms to replant next spring. Pot up other plants you want to overwinter, such as begonias, geraniums, coleus, and sweet potato vine cuttings.

Garden waste: If you haven’t already done so, consider starting a compost pile in a bin you build yourself or buy readymade. Check You Tube or other Internet sites for DIY demonstrations and directions, or go to your local University of Maryland extension service web site, <https://extension.umd.edu/mg/locations/composting>. Basically, you’ll want to keep your bin about 3 feet by 3 feet, and under five feet high. Shred your plant materials with a lawnmower to speed up the composting. Layer plants, vegetable kitchen scraps, fallen leaves, old mulch, and grass clippings. Water between layers. Keep diseased plants, twigs, branches, and other woody materials out of the pile.

Whether you’re making your own compost pile or putting yard waste in yard waste bags, make sure you put diseased plants in containers headed for municipal waste, not municipal compost. Only spent plants or those infected with common pathogens like powdery mildew and early blight should be hot-composted (at least 140° F). “Some very destructive diseases, such as boxwood blight and late blight of tomatoes/potatoes, should not be composted at home or at municipal compost operations. These infected plants should be bagged up with household trash and sent to the landfill,” notes Dr. Jon Traunfeldt, UMD Extension Service.

Fellow Master Gardener Pat Strawder also explains that “Not everything needs to be cleared and chopped to the ground.” She recommends planting ground covers, such as Daikon radishes, pink clover, hairy vetch or buckwheat. These help to bind nitrogen to the soil and enrich it when the garden is tilled in the spring.

And, she says, even though you are cleaning up garden beds, you’ll want to leave some plants standing until spring. It may seem contradictory, but birds and insects will thank you. While insects make their home in soil and in the debris of leaf litter, birds forage all winter long for those same insects and eggs to eat; in addition, they eat from the seed heads of cone flowers, black-eyed Susans, spearmint, and other plants.

Vegetables: Did you plant carrots this summer? You’re in luck. Cover their beds/rows with a deep straw or leaf mulch, and you can continue to harvest them throughout the winter. We mentioned in our August column that you could start some late plantings, such as spinach, arugula, and kale, through the middle of October. You’ll need to use a cold frame or floating row cover (FRC) to keep the soil moist and protect seedlings from pests. The young plants will go dormant and re-grow in spring.

For other information about gardening, watch for the Master Gardeners’ column in the Frederick News-Post on the first Thursday of each month… explore the University of Maryland’s extension service web site, http://extension.umd.edu/frederick-county/home-gardening; or call us at 301-600-1596.

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Autumn Gardening Tasks: A Labor of Love

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on September 3, 2020, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

Ahhh. September. Warm days, cool nights. Hopefully, you are reading this column, sitting outside, enjoying the fruits (and sights) of your hard labor. Once you’ve figured out what to do with all of those zucchinis and cucumbers, here are a few early fall tasks on which to focus. I say “tasks,” but they’re really a labor of love.

Relax and—

  • Don’t fertilize, as new growth may just be killed off when the frost hits next month.
  • Don’t deadhead—first, because you’re likely to find a few alyssum, zinnia, impatiens, and petunia volunteers peeping up from the mulch or in flower pots next spring. Second, because some plants, such as coneflowers, clematis, brown-eyed Susans, spearmint, sedum, and grasses, offer a winter habitat and food for birds and insects.

Keep on with—

  • Weeding—yes, weeding! The more unwanted or invasive plants you can dig up, the fewer weeds you’ll have to pull next spring.
  • Cleaning up detritus from the garden. Compost those plants that are fading away, or put in yard waste bags those that are mildewed or diseased.
  • Dividing and replanting your spring-flowering plants, summer and fall perennials and bulbs. September and October are even better months than late August was for this task. According to the University of Maryland extension service, perennials planted in the fall often grow larger than when planted at other times of the year, and often bloom the first season. Plus, bulbs especially need that cold overwintering period to bloom well in the spring.
  • Keep an eye on those fall flowers, too. Chrysanthemums, fall anemones, and asters may have begun blooming now. Milkweed, the only plant that monarchs use to lay their eggs (look for a single, pinhead sized white egg on the underside of the leaf), may fall prey to tiny aphids. Try to wash the aphids off, or better, remove aphids with alcohol on a Q-tip, while avoiding any caterpillars or eggs.

Begin winter preparations by—

  • Preserving bulbs and rhizomes for spring planting. By October, you’ll be racing against the frost (more on that next month). Will you let tender perennials die down and buy fresh bulbs/rhizomes in the spring? Here on our little plot of earth, we dig them up in September and October, before frost, carefully searching the soil for the “baby” gladiola bulbs and dahlia and canna rhizomes formed over the summer. Dried for a few days, then dirt shaken from their roots, glads and dahlias go into labeled paper bags and are tucked into a plastic bin in the garage or basement. Cannas are wrapped in newspapers, layered in a cardboard box, and stored in a cold basement corner. Seeds gathered from zinnias, morning glories (but not the purple ones, which are very invasive), and marigolds, are dried, labeled, and stored in Ziplock sandwich bags.
  • Gathering seeds to dry, an easy task. I used to spread the seeds on paper towels. Now, thanks to a family gift, I have a lovely, wide, two-tiered net drying bag that I hang out of the way in an upstairs room. I place the labeled seeds on aluminum pie pans inside the drying bag. Whatever method you choose, once you’re sure the seeds are dry, label and store them in plastic or paper bags (I like Ziplock plastic bags to keep out insects) in a cool place. Check our columns next spring for planting seeds, hardening off seedlings, and planting them in permanent locations.
  • Cleaning, conditioning and repairing your tools, a task that is both ongoing throughout the year but also a special preparation for winter. You want them to be clean so that they don’t spread disease next spring; you want them to be well-conditioned and repaired so that you can use them right away. So, replace worn parts; oil or scrub away dirt and rust, as needed. Remember to pay attention to wooden handles, too.

[…W]atch for the Master Gardeners’ column in the Frederick News-Post on the first Thursday of each month; explore the University of Maryland’s extension service web site, http://extension.umd.edu/frederick-county/home-gardening; or call us at 301-600-1596.

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All Work and No Play? Stop to Smell the Roses, er, Native Honeysuckle

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on date as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

Seems that [many gardening] columns deal with what/where to plant, when/how to divide, or ways to attack those darn invasives. But now and then, we need to stop and smell the roses, er, native honeysuckle, perhaps with a glass of our favorite beverage in hand.

While you growl at the latest patch of weeds that have sprung up from nowhere, we hope that you also find time in these hot and humid days and evenings to enjoy the birds, butterflies, and bees flitting about your garden and to smell the flowers that are attracting them.

You’ll also find lots of suggestions for gardening resources available online in the following:

In addition, our latest (always free) [now called GardenSmart] flyer offers you lots of suggestions that not only entertain but also educate children. For instance, there are suggestions for making family portraits with plant materials, as well as URLs for science-related webinars and virtual classroom materials. These may augment your child’s virtual learning this fall. If you’d like to receive [GardenSmart] by e-mail, contact us at fgardenersnews@gmail.com.

Occasionally, we have warned you about pesky invasive plants or insects. This month, our warning concerns packets of seeds being mailed from China to people across the country. Do NOT plant them! Instead, report the packet to ppwm.mda@maryland.gov or call 410-841-5920. The seeds may be those of invasive plants, or may carry harmful diseases that could severely damage American crops. Keep the seeds, packaging, and mailing label until a representative from the Maryland Department of Agriculture or USDA Animal and Health Inspection Service contacts you with further instructions. More information is available at https://www.aphis.usda.gov/aphis/newsroom/stakeholder-info/sa_by_date/sa-2020/sa-07/seeds-china.

As you are taking that garden stroll or sitting in your lawn chair making up yet another garden to-do list, keep an eye out for caterpillars, to know which ones are dangerous, which are not. Leafrollers, orange-striped oak worm, green-striped maple worms, oak skeletonizers, and sawflies are feeding on various shade trees. The fall webworm appears in late summer, is hairy and about one- to two inches long. It creates tent-like webbing on the ends of branches of various shade trees and shrubs. Although the webbing is unsightly, it causes little damage, nor do the others mentioned previously, according to the University of Maryland extension service https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/august-tips-tasks. Learn to recognize and avoid saddleback caterpillars or other stinging caterpillars.

[Finally,] the extension service also notes that hot and humid weather, such as we have experienced throughout July, encourages “Southern blight, a significant soil-borne disease.” The blight attacks “a wide range of annuals, groundcovers, and perennials, including thyme, coneflower, coreopsis, and black-eyed Susans.” Generally, “the lower stems turn brown or black, foliage wilts, and plants gradually dry up and die.” About the only way to control the blight is to remove the affected plant and all mycelium (fungus) filaments that are clinging to stems, roots, and soil.

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Planning for the Fall Harvest

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on July 2, 2020, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column may have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

Yes, it’s summer, the pool beckons, books and hammocks send their siren song of kick back and relax, air conditioning feels so good, and still the garden keeps us busy. But even as we pull weeds, divide perennials, cut back chrysanthemums until mid-July, doggedly dig up invasives, and prepare for planting vegetables for fall harvest, we just have to pause and appreciate Mother Nature’s handiwork this summer.

Whether I look east or west, north or south, the gardens surrounding our house and those of many of our neighbors have never looked better than this year, often making me wish I had the skill with a paintbrush and canvas that my sister-in-law, Rita, has.

In the east, early morning sun touches the tips of the white pine and Norway spruce, making them almost luminous. The deep shadows of cherry laurels and junipers stretching across the east side of our yard gradually disappear as the sun rises higher. More subdued, the Ostrich ferns in a wooded area—our “secret” garden, as my friend Ann calls that area—fill the understory with shades of pale green. By mid-afternoon the hot sun paints the lacey, feathery branches of arborvitae on our west border a brilliant green. In northern and other shady sections of the yard, caladium leaves with delicate pink veining are enormous; impatiens and begonias brighten the darkness. Petunias are full and lush everywhere we have full sun.

I’m not quite sure whom or what to thank for Mother Nature’s generous, loving touch this year. Is the growth of plants due to all the rain we’ve had the past few weeks? Or are my husband and I being more attentive to our gardening tasks because of the pandemic? After all, we’ve sharply curtailed shopping, avoid eating out, cancelled a June vacation and many of the one-day or weekend trips we normally take to attend summer festivals. As my husband, who has a dominant wanderlust gene, remarked the other day, “What else is there to do but garden?”

Whatever the reason, it’s a joy to see so much growth and bloom. And it makes me look forward to the plants yet to come—Will the seeds and seedlings planted in the next two months grow as lushly for a fall bounty of vegetables and salad greens?

Even if you don’t do a lot of gardening, you might consider planting a few seeds now to harvest in early fall. It might be a solace to know no one has handled those vegetables but you when it comes time to harvest your crops and feed your family, or freeze/can for winter meals.

Admittedly, one drawback to spring and fall harvests is that you have to take into account the expected heavy frost dates, as well as the number of days between planting and harvesting, since varieties differ even within the same kind of plant. May 15/October 15 are traditional dates for frost, but check the weather stations for more targeted dates. Count back from the predicted frost date to determine just when to plant seeds for harvesting; most seed packets will tell you the number of days from planting to harvesting.

For example, most tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants require about 100 days to harvest. So, using October 15 as a harvest date, you would need to get those plants in as soon as possible. In the next week or two, you’ll want to directly sow into the ground, hot weather veggies, such as cowpeas, corn, pumpkin, watermelon, gourds, and sunflowers. You can sow squash, beans, and cucumbers directly into your vegetable garden right now through the end of July. By the end of July, sow other fall vegetables, such as broccoli, kale, turnips, and cauliflower, in flats now or directly in the garden by August 20. Peas should be sown directly into the garden by August 15.

The National Gardening Association (https://garden.org/apps/calendar/?q=Dalecarlia+Rsvr%2C+MD) suggests that because of the heat in July and August, you should start lettuce, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage indoors in trays in early July and transfer them to the garden in mid-August. The NGA posts a fall frost date of October 29, just about two weeks later than tradition.

Plant now for fall harvest

Below are suggested guidelines for planting seeds/seedlings to harvest this fall [2020]. Check with your local weather forecasters for best guesses as to the first heavy frost in our area. Our thanks to the National Gardening Association (https://garden.org/apps/calendar/?q=Dalecarlia+Rsvr%2C+MD) for the following information. Check its website for a more complete list of vegetable planting dates.

CropSow seeds indoorsTransplant seedlings into the gardenDirect-sow seeds
Beansn/an/aJuly 16–Aug 15
Beetsn/an/aAug 15–Sept 29
BroccoliJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
Brussel SproutsJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
CabbageJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
Cantaloupen/an/aJuly 1–July 16
Carrotsn/an/aJuly 31–Sept 29
CauliflowerJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
Chardn/an/aJuly 16–Sept 29
CollardsJuly 1–Aug 15July 31–Sept 14n/a
Cornn/an/aJuly 16–July 31
Cucumbersn/an/aJuly 16–July 31
EggplantsMay 20–June 4July 1–July 16n/a
Garlicn/an/aAug 15–Sept 29
Gourds, Squash and Pumpkinsn/an/aJun 16 – Jul 16
KaleJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
KohlrabiJun 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
LettuceJulye 31–Aug 30Aug 30–Sept 29Aug 30–Sept 29
Mustardn/an/aAug 30–Sept 29
Okran/an/aJune 16–July 16
Onionsn/an/aSept 29–Oct 9
ParsleyJune 16–July 31July 31–Sept 14n/a
Peas (English)n/an/aJuly 31–Aug 30
Peas (Southern)n/an/aJune 16–July 16
Peas (Sugar Snap)n/an/aJuly 31–Aug 30
PeppersMay 25–June 9Jul 6–July 21n/a
Potatoesn/an/aJuly 31–Aug 30
Radishesn/an/aAug 30–Sept 29
SpinachJuly 16–Aug 30Aug 15–Sept 29Aug 15–Sept 29
TomatoesMay 25–June 9July 6–July 21n/a
Turnipsn/an/aSept 14–Oct 14
Watermelonn/an/aJune 16–July 16
CropSow seeds indoorsTransplant seedlings into the gardenDirect sow seeds
Beansn/an/aJuly 16–Aug 15
Beetsn/an/aAug 15–Sept 29
BroccoliJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
Brussel SproutsJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
CabbageJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
Cantaloupen/an/aJuly 1–July 16
Carrotsn/an/aJuly 31–Sept 29
CauliflowerJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
Chardn/an/aJuly 16–Sept 29
CollardsJuly 1–-Aug 15July 31–Sept 14n/a
Cornn/an/aJul 16–July 31
Cucumbersn/an/aJul 16–July 31
EggplantsMay 20–June 4July 1–July 16n/a
Garlicn/an/aAug 15–Sept 29
Gourds, Squash and Pumpkinsn/an/aJune 16–July 16
KaleJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
KohlrabiJune 4–July 19July 16–Aug 30n/a
LettuceJul 31–Aug 30Aug 30–Sept 29Aug 30–Sept 29
Mustardn/an/aAug 30–Sept 29
Okran/an/aJune 16–July 16
Onionsn/an/aSept 29–Oct 9
ParsleyJune 16–July 31July 31–Sept 14n/a
Peas (English)n/an/aJuly 31–Aug 30
Peas (Southern)n/an/aJune 16–July 16
Peas (Sugar Snap)n/an/aJuly 31–Aug 30
PeppersMay 25 – Jun 9Jul 6 – Jul 21n/a
Potatoesn/an/aJuly 31–Aug 30
Radishesn/an/aAug 30–Sept 29
SpinachJuly 16–Aug 30Aug 15–Sept 29Aug 15–Sept 29
TomatoesMay 25–June 9July 6–July 21n/a
Turnipsn/an/aSept 14–Oct 14
Watermelonn/an/aJune 16–July 16

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Integrated Pest Management: A Best Practice for Gardeners

Note: This article originally appeared in the Frederick News-Post on June, 2020, as a column for the Frederick County Master Gardeners. It is reprinted with permission of the Features Editor. Some details from the original column have been edited slightly or deleted here if they are no longer relevant.

One of the best practices you can add to your gardening repertoire is IPM, “a research-based holistic approach to pest management that emphasizes biological (e.g., attracting natural enemies, cultural (e.g., planting disease-resistant varieties), and physical (e.g., hand removal of insect pests) approaches to prevent problems and control pests and diseases at acceptable levels….Monitoring and using organic or other low-risk pesticides only when pest or disease levels are unacceptable are also part of this management approach” (https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/how-id-prevent-and-manage-plant-problems).

Many predators and parasitoids are your friends: they pollinate your plants and attack destructive pests, whether larvae or adult. For example, ladybugs will eat aphids, white flies, potato beetles, mites, and other bugs. According to Chris McLaughlin’s “Predatory Insects in the Garden” in the magazine Fine Gardening (https://www.finegardening.com/article/predatory-insects-in-the-garden), the Green Lacewing insect is the “Aphid lion” of the garden, its larvae eating as many as 60 aphids in one hour. Lacewings also eat mealybugs, spider mites, scale, and thrips, etc. Tiny Trichogramma wasps “lay eggs inside the larvae of garden pests such as cabbage worms, cutworms, and borers,” McLaughlin notes. As the eggs hatch, they eat the larvae from the inside.

As I’ve advised before, take at least a weekly walk around your garden to spot problems early on: Closely study visible plant parts, including undersides of leaves. Where you see a pest, are you looking at an egg, a larva, an adult? Once you’ve identified the pest or plant problem, try using physical and cultural methods first to resolve the problem. You may pick off destructive pests by hand, wash them off with a hose, or wipe them away with a cloth. Remove dead, diseased, and infested plant parts as needed (be sure to clean/disinfect your tools afterward). Of course, avoiding all-kill sprays means that your flowers, vegetables, and fruits may not look perfect. Learn to live with that. When I find a big yellow and black-striped caterpillar munching a milkweed leaf, I’m happy—that means a monarch butterfly will eventually emerge.

So when should you use a pesticide? When you’ve tried everything else to eradicate the problem. For example, one IPM control for bagworms is handpicking. Next, you may opt to lop off the branch to which the bag is attached. However, if the worms are crawling around on branches, and you can’t get them all, you may need to spray. The University of Maryland Extension Service (https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/bagworms-trees-and-shrubs) recommends using the microbial insecticide, B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis), against bagworms between now and mid-July, as it works well only on immature bagworms.

As reassurance, the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/treecare/forest_health/spraying/bt_insecticide.html) states that studies show that “In general, Bt is very safe for use. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has found no hazards to human health associated with the use of Bt…. The EPA has exempted it from food residue tolerances, groundwater restrictions, endangered species labeling and special review requirements. Bt has no known effect on … bees, fish, birds, and wildlife. It is the pesticide of choice for use near lakes, rivers, and dwellings.”

Another effective IPM tool is knowing whether the plant is right for your zone, for the soil, for the amount of water, sun/shade that it gets. According to the UMD extension service, “The best management method is prevention. When you focus your time, attention, and efforts on growing ‘the right plant, in the right place, in the right way,’ you can greatly reduce plant problems.”

Biodiversity is also an important part of IPM. With a variety of plants, you will attract a greater variety of insects. Using companion plantings helps, too. Much like using predator insects and parasitoids, planting different crops near one another makes IPM easier, helps with pollination, and provides habitat for those beneficial insects mentioned above. Amy Grant, https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-plant-companions.htm, notes that all types of onions and peppers, as well as spinach, lettuce, carrots, asparagus, and arugula, can be planted alongside tomatoes. A number of herbs and flowers are also good at deterring pests from tomatoes—for example, borage, parsley, mint, marigolds, and nasturtiums.

However, some plants don’t do well together. For example, the Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, etc.) should not be planted with tomatoes; nor should corn, as corn tends to attract the tomato fruit worm. Having potatoes near tomatoes increases the chance of potato blight disease. 

All of these elements will affect how well the plant grows and how susceptible it is to disease and pests.

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